What's in My Soap

will posted 09/13/07 @ 12:00PM EST

Ever looked at the back of some bottle of body wash or shampoo and seen that long list of complicated looking ingredients, and wondered what it all does? There's so many things, what could each one of them possibly do?

Me too, but seeing as I'm a chemist, I figure why not investigate, and learn about some molecules. Plus, wouldn't it be impressive if someone looks at the back of something, and says, man I wonder what so and so does, and you quickly retort a scientific sounding response.

I took a bottle of Irish Spring Body Wash, and analyzed each of on the ingredients listed on the bottle. The order indicates the relative amounts, so there is more of the first listed component than the second, and so on. Enjoy!

Irish Spring

Water
Water covers 71% of the surface of the earth. You're probably pretty familiar with it. Odds are you drink in it, and bath in it. What is it doing in my soap? Well, if you just had all of these chemicals concentrated, it would be pretty strong, and not very good for you. However diluted, these chemicals can do their wonders, which are described below.

Water

Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium laureth sulfate is a synthetic detergent. It is abbreviated as SLES. Its effect is to act as a foaming agent, and is an efficient cleaner. The alkyl end of the molecule (the zigzagging end on the right) is fat/oil soluble (soluble meaning that it can be dissolved in a certain substance), so it is able to bind to oils in our skin. The sulfate end on the right is composed of sulfur and oxygen, and is water soluble. Because the molecule has two ends soluble in different materials, it can act as an anchor to pull excess oil from our skin, and can still be washed away. The section of the molecule surrounded by paranthesis and marked with an n indicates that that section of the molecule will repeat n time, where n is a whole number. Often times with SLES, n is 2 or 3.

This compound can be classified as a detergent, and a surfactant. A surfactant is a molecule that reduces the surface tension of what it is emerged in.

There are rumors that this compound is carcinogenic (causes cancer), however these are just rumors; it is not true. It's biggest danger is being irritating to those with sensitive skin. It is very common in soaps and toothpastes, etc. For more on this being disproven as being carcinogenic, see below in the references.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cocamidopropyl Betaine has similar properties to that of SLES. It is abbreviated as CAPB. You can see that it has a similar structure. The alkyl chain on the left is again fat/oil soluble, and the carboxylate (the carbon and two oxygens) group on the right is water soluble, and has the same effect as the sulfate in SLES.

The difference between these two molecules is that CAPB is a milder detergent, and it is a more viscous (thicker) compound. Why is it more viscous? Well, it's complicated, if you're feeling brave, feel free to delve into some fluid dynamics, it's not my sort of thing though. The short, simplified version is that bulkier molecules which have strong intermolecular forces (forces that pull the molecules together) are more likely to be a solid, or a viscous liquid. The nitrogen to the right of the oxygen in the line structure is a hydrogen bond donor, and the two double bonded oxygens act as hydrogen bond acceptors. Hydrogen bonding, is what makes water such an interesting molecule.

CAPB essentially dilutes SLES, and makes it less irritating, but not so much as to render it ineffective.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Sodium Chloride
Sodium chloride has a much more common name; salt. You encounter salt every day, and is the reason that salty foods are high in sodium; because salt is made of sodium. However what is it doing in my cleaning agent? Well, it has two major functions.

It "softens" water. You've probably heard of hard water. Hard water is laced with magnesium and calcium ions, which leave a residue, or scum in your bathtub, etc. The way sodium chloride softens water, is by "exchanging ions" with the magnesium and calcium ions. This reduces the negative effects of the magnesium and calcium ions, and helps prevent the residue from being left on you or your bathtub.

Salt is also an antiseptic, which helps prevent and clean bacteria from your skin.

Sodium Chloride

Decyl Glucoside
This is another detergent/surfactant. It is one of the milder agents listed here, and also acts as one of the best foaming agents. As you can tell from the lack of (+)'s and (-)'s shown in its structure, it is non-ionic surfactant, which generally means it is more environmentally friendly, and it is also much less likely to be left as a residue.

Decyl Glucoside

Fragrance
Well, this is a vague term. Fragrance chemistry is a pretty specialized fields, and is pretty self-explanatory. It consists of engineering different compounds or mixtures of to produce a certain scent. So, "fragrance" could be a whole slew of things. I'm not going to go into it because it's useless since they don't tell us which fragrances they're using. If you're interested, google something along the lines of "fragrance used in soaps".

DMDM Hydantoin
Now this is interesting. This molecule is a preservative, which releases formaldehyde. Yeah, formaldehyde. Your first thought was probably of dead bodies, but formaldehyde is actually used in more things than you probably know about. For instance, it is even used in vaccinations, and to treat warts. All new to me. It is used in our product because formaldehyde is used to kill bacteria and fungi, and acts as preservative. These are also two reasons it's used to preserve dead bodies actually.

Formaldehyde is toxic to the body, becuase it is converted into formic acid. This has the effect of lowering the pH of our blood (making it more acidic), which is very bad. However, luckily our body is buffered, which means it resists changes in pH. I won't go into great detail here, but I will list just a few ways the body does this. our blood has carbon dioxide in it, which produces carbonic acid to neutralize any excess base we might have in us. Bicarbonate is in our blood as well which acts as a base to get rid of any acid in our blood. One of the main functions of the kidney is to excrete acid; our urine is much more acidic than our blood. In case you were wondering, our blood has a pH of about 7.4, which is just slightly more basic than water, which is often used as a standard, and has a pH of 7.

That was quite a tangent, but hopefully an interesting one.

DMDM Hydantoin

Polyquaternium-7
Another interesting molecule. Polyquaternium-7 actually coats hairs on the body with a very thin film. The purpose is to make the hair less electrostatic and easier to comb, which will make it feel smoother. This is true for both the hair on your head, and body hair. If you're interested in seeing some cool microscopic pictures of hair before and after being coated with Polyquaternium-7, click on the "Morphological analysis of polymers on hair fibers by SEM and AFM" link in the references below.

Polyquaternium-7

Tetrasodium EDTA
Another component whose purpose is to soften water. Tetrasodium EDTA has four (which is why it's TETRA) sodium ions, which can be exchanged with magnesium and calcium ions from hard water. EDTA is very common in laboratory use for general ion exchange purposes.

Tetrasodium EDTA

Citric Acid
Get ready for it, Citric acid is used to... soften water! A recurring theme, but it is important. However, that is not the only purpose of citric acid. You're most used to hearing about citric acid from being in fruits. It makes foods taste sour (acidic). In terms of our product, citric acid also opens up the outer layer of hair, the cuticle, and allow the other detergents and such to have a deeper cleaning effects.

Citric Acid

FD&C Green No. 3
FD&C stands for the US Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. There are currently seven artificial food colorings permitted in the US. Natural food colorings such as caramel coloring, often found in cola are in a separate category. The name of FD&C Green No. 3 is Fast Green FCF. The reason food colorings are different colors (as well as why anything a different color) is due to the wavelength that light is absorbed at in a molecule. This varies based on structure and composition of a molecule. This coloring is used to give the product it's green color.

FDC Green No. 3

FD&C Yellow No. 5
See the above item for a brief explanation on food coloring and their name. The name of the FD&C Yellow No. 5 compound is Tartrazine. Its structure is shown below. This is the dye found in Mountain Dew and simliar sodas. There is an urban legend that ingesting this dye will shrink your testicles and/or penis. This is nonsense. Anyhow, this coloring helps reduce the intensity of the green in the product.

FDC Yellow No. 5

I hope you enjoyed this journey of chemistry, please leave any feedback in the commments below. If you enjoyed this and want more, just suggest a product.

References:
Wikipedia - Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Rumor: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Causes Cancer
Wikipedia - Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Ingredients - Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Wikipedia - Viscosity
The Many Uses of Salt
Other Uses for Salt
Wikipedia - Decyl Glucoside
The Difference between anionic and nonionic surfactant, and its application to detergent
Ingredients - DMDM Hydantoin
Wikipedia - Formaldehyde
Morphological analysis of polymers on hair fibers by SEM and AFM
Wikipedia - Tetrasodium EDTA
Wikipedia - Citric Acid
Wikipedia - Fast Green FCF
Wikipedia - Tartrazine
Urban Legends Reference Pages: Mountain Dew Shrinks Testicles
Wikipedia - Water


This posted tagged as: science

Recent posts tagged as science:
#1: by dustin on 09/13/07 @ 10:20PM EST

this may be the nerdiest thing i have ever seen. where are the pictures of my balls?

Reply to this comment.
#2: by Will on 09/17/07 @ 4:30PM EST

Sigh...
They're right here:
http://www.willandbeyond.com/latenightcroquet1.html

Reply to this comment.
#3: by dave on 09/23/07 @ 11:59AM EST

interesting article, nice work!

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#4: by jd on 09/23/07 @ 9:30PM EST

Thanks, I found that quite enjoyable to read!

I am curious why several types of chemicals must be used for the same purposes (multiple softeners/surfactants).

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#5: by Ella Fant on 09/23/07 @ 9:38PM EST

Really interesting, and a great summary for us lay people. Why not do the ingredients in twinkies as a follow up? Some of those are pretty mysterious...

Reply to this comment.
#6: by Will on 09/23/07 @ 10:03PM EST

jd:
Good question. The different detergents have varying strengths. Including just SLES would be too strong, but Cocamidopropyl Betaine by itself wouldn't be strong enough. By using a combination of the two they can create the balance that they would like. Plus these molecules have secondary benefits, such as Cocamidopropyl Betaine making the solution thicker.
At least this is my understanding of it.

Ella Fant:
Great suggestion, it's now on my todo list!

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#7: by Josh on 09/24/07 @ 1:04AM EST

Dustin's a fucking moron, this is important stuff. For all we know they could be putting anthrax int our shampoo (not really, but you get my point). It's nice to know what and why goes into things we use.

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#8: by Phil_E_Drifter on 09/24/07 @ 2:43AM EST

Ella Fant said "Why not do the ingredients in twinkies as a follow up?" Check out http://www.twinkiesproject.com/ :)

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#9: by Regan on 09/24/07 @ 4:25AM EST

Thanks for the investigation. As a biochem major, I appreciate seeing someone who enthusiastically shares useful information. Too bad more people who insist on believing the health food store "experts" won't read your review!

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#10: by David on 09/24/07 @ 5:29AM EST

I'm pretty sure another reason they use citric acid is for advertising; they can shout off about it's fruit basis and call it natural.

EDTA is one of my favourite molecules (geeky statement of the day), and it pops up all over the place.

Awesome post, really interesting look at some of the ingredients; a comparison of sodium laureth/lauryl sulphate, ammonium laureth/lauryl sulphate and the massive range of other surfactant-detergents used. Especially important for people with sensitive skin.

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#11: by Dominic on 09/25/07 @ 11:28AM EST

Nice analysis. How about covering (and/or using) a real soap. Dr. Bronner's soaps have been around forever, and instead of bathing with all of those chemicals I use his peppermint soap and have never looked back.

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#12: by mike on 09/28/07 @ 10:00AM EST

Wow, Will. I'm impressed.



like, really. Kudos. You should do the same with deodorants or shampoo to keep it to hygiene (seeing as how twinkies have been done already).

And good job with the php, especially w/ adding comments so I can leave stupid messages. It'd be nice to be able to comment from the home page tho. You could add a comments link on the bottom to take us to the permalink so we don't have to scroll back up to click on the heading.

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#13: by Joe on 09/29/07 @ 2:02PM EST

I too am a science nerd with a fascination for molecular analyses of ingredient lists. Thanks for making this page.
The morphological analysis of polyquaternium 7 was pretty cool . I just went to the Ciba homepage looking for career opportunities and they don't have any openings. Those jerks. I didn't want to work for them anyway... Pfft!

I too have switched to Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap and never looked back (about 10 yrs and counting). ((Seriously, it's so much cheaper, and its tingle-ly good-smelling goodness rocks. One bottle lasts about 3 years, and yes I shower daily.))

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#14: by LewyLewis on 09/30/07 @ 5:58AM EST

Thanks for the info. on Soap... I am wondering about Vinegar, what harm it can cause taking a spoon full each night. There are claims it can reduce cholesterol etc

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#15: by Will on 09/30/07 @ 6:50PM EST

David:
Good point, never thought about that.

Dominic:
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into it.

Mike:
Thanks. Yeah the comment thing is already in place on my test page. I haven't put PHP on the front page yet, but that launches October 1st, which I think is tomorrow...

Joe:
Haha, sorry to hear that.

LewyLewis:
A spoonful of vinegar shouldn't really do any harm at all; the active ingredient is acetic acid, and it's fairly dilute.

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#16: by Steffanie on 10/01/07 @ 4:41PM EST

Thank you for taking the time to educate.

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#17: by Will on 10/03/07 @ 10:14AM EST

What's in My Twinkie:
http://www.dailygalaxy.com/my_weblog/2007/09/rocket-fuel-and.html

Not my work, but thought it was worth sharing.

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#18: by ezra on 10/12/07 @ 9:58PM EST

Thanx, what a joy. You talk as a teacher.
You would appreciate the nutritional work of Nutri-Spec.net

Colloids...Thos. Riddick, Ph.D
fatty acids vs. sterols... E. Revici, MD
Mitochondria energy paths. Geo. Watson, PhD

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#19: by Adje on 10/18/07 @ 12:17AM EST

Here is a fact sheet about Sodium Loryl Sulfate from the environmental working group that identifies its properties. It should be noted that this page also claims that SLS is a carcinogen and references a 1982 paper. However, this is during in-vitro tests and so is probably not harmful to humans at the low concentrations found in soaps and other cosmetic products. Here's the link:
http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred_id=1171¬hanks=1

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#20: by Adje on 10/18/07 @ 12:18AM EST

Woops *lauryl!

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#21: by snak on 11/01/07 @ 4:11PM EST

Citric acid is also used as a reducing agent which means that it prevents oxidation of the shampoo ingredients. Oxidation can cause your shampoo to stop foaming, smell awful and look like crap. Nice article...reminds me of the time when i used to formulate cosmetics in college and had to memorize all the chemicals and how they function when mixed together and how to get that perfect shampoo or toothpaste or lipsticks.

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#22: by Sam Morris on 11/26/07 @ 4:57PM EST

Thanks for this! Helped me out on my Chemistry homework :)
Great analysis.

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